Yes! I can create any birthstone design you would like, just contact me for a free quote:  bejeweledbyrenee@aol.com   Click HERE to view Birthstone information and photos

View the answer:    Gem & Birthstone Facts

View the answer:  Turquoise

View the answer:      Argentium Sterling Silver

For everyday minor tarnish removal, I use Connoisseurs Jewelry Wipes which I have purchased in the jewelry section at Walmart.  I have also found these on Ebay for a little less than Walmart.

If a more thorough cleaning is required, rinse the object first to remove any pollution that may have settled on the object. These contaminants, which may be more abrasive than the polish you will be using, can actually scratch the silver if rubbed into the surface. Apply Tarni-Shield Silver Polish, Twinkle Silver Polish, Blitz Silver Polish, Goddard’s Silver Foam, Wright's Anti-Tarnish Silver Polish (found at your local grocery store or Walmart), or Wright's Silver Cream using a moist cellulose sponge. If you feel it necessary to protect your hands from moisture, use nitrile gloves which contain no ingredients that tarnish silver. Rub the object in a straight, back-and-forth manner so as to maintain a uniform appearance. Avoid rubbing in a circular motion. Rinse the sponge regularly, as elements in the tarnish can be very abrasive.

Dried polish can be removed by patting the area with a warm wet cotton ball or a wet horsehair brush. Rinse the object with warm water, and then dry with a Selvyt cloth or cotton dish towel immediately to avoid spotting.

Never Use Toothpaste as a Silver Polish!

Toothpaste should NEVER be used as a silver polish. Some toothpastes contain baking soda or other ingredients which are much too abrasive; even trace amounts can cause serious damage. Use polishes that are specifically formulated to remove tarnish from silver.

Silver Storage & Display

Your primary consideration should be to keep silver objects clean and free of dust and surface grime. In addition, the following guidelines will help to preserve your silver’s finish while it is on display or in storage.

To minimize the formation of tarnish, use 3M Anti-Tarnish Strips to absorb tarnish-producing gases, and silica gel to keep relative humidity low.

Before storing, wrap each piece in non-buffered tissue paper (acid-free and of archival quality) or soft anti-tarnish tissue, place it in a polyethylene bag such as a Ziploc, toss in a 3M Anti-Tarnish Strip, and seal the bag. This will provide some protection against changes in relative humidity and create a barrier against tarnish-producing gases.

You can further protect silver pieces against tarnish by placing small containers of silica gel (to absorb moisture) and activated charcoal (to absorb pollutants) in the storage bag.

Some storage materials should be avoided! Wrapping in newspaper or binding in rubber bands can cause deep discoloration that may have to be professionally polished (I discovered the rubberband-No-No the hard way!). Plastic wrap contains tarnish-producing materials and can also adhere to the silver over time, requiring solvents to remove. Finally, non-archival cardboard boxes contain acids that aggressively tarnish silver.

3M Anti-Tarnish Strips

3M Anti-Tarnish Strips can be used to absorb tarnish-producing gases. The strips are made from a 45-lb. paper containing activated charcoal. They guard against corrosion, tarnish, and discoloration by absorbing airborne pollutants. These strips can also be used to protect objects containing copper, brass, solder, gold, and tin. Unlike similar products, 3M strips absorb on both sides.

Silica Gel

Silica Gel is safe to use with even the most sensitive materials, including food and medicine—it’s what is contained in those tiny packets enclosed in pill bottles and shoe boxes to prevent moisture. It prevents tarnish- and corrosion-causing condensation within enclosed areas, such as flatware drawers and china cabinets. Such areas should be made as vapor-proof as possible.

Despite its name, silica gel is not a gel, but is in the form of chemically inert man-made granules containing thousands of tiny crevices that “drink up” excess humidity from the air by surface adsorption.

Yes! I now have several types of motorcycle charms available; Sportster, Full-dressed Hog, Chopper are just some examples.  Contact me for a free quote today:  bejeweledbyrenee@aol.com 

Click Motorcycle Necklace to view Biker Jewelry:

Neck chains come in a variety of lengths and widths:

Box: each link is wide, square, and interconnects with the next.

Byzantine: An intricate neck chain design where two pairs of oval-shaped links are linked together and then parted by a third, larger, thicker link attached to each pair.

Cable: The typical chain, composed of round same-size rings, each linked to the next.

Curb: oval-shaped links twisted and often diamond-cut to lie flat.

Figaro: alternates rectangular and circular links, typically one long rectangle followed by three smaller round links.

Foxtail: sleek and elegant, an intricately woven chain fashioned with two rows of oval links facing each other at a 45-degree angle and connected by a center row of flat rings set flush with each other.

Herringbone: One of the most popular chain designs, the herringbone is a series of short, flat, slanted, parallel links in two or more rows, with the direction of the slant alternating row by row.

Mariner link: oval links with a bar dividing the middle of each link. The figogucci is a variant of the mariner where links are twisted and diamond-cut.

Omega: a flat chain made up of rectangular smooth rounded metal plates side by side and crimped along the ends onto a strip of metal mesh.

Rope: two thick strands woven together giving the appearance of a spiral.

Serpentine: A series of small, flat, s-shaped links set closely together and held in place by a twin set of links set below them.

Singapore: resembles a twisted herringbone wherein each link is composed of a series of flat, diamond-cut, interwoven loops.

Snake: a series of round wavy metal rings joined side by side and forming a smooth flexible tube.

Barrel: A square wire fits into a barrel-shaped tube and locks into place. Some barrel clasps have an additional figure-eight safety clasp on the side. Some barrels screw together providing an even safer neck chain closure.

Lobster claw: One of the most popular clasps today. The lobster claw resembles its name. Although it hooks through a loop at the other end of the chain, it’s rectangular and flat to give you a better grip.

Spring ring or "C" Clasp: A round clasp that opens with a coil spring. On better neck chains, the spring ring is generally heavier and more durable than the round loops of old. 
 

Toggle Clasp: 

Non-custom necklaces or chains come in industry standard lengths; five different lengths for women, and four for men. The table and model below describe and illustrate these standard sizes.

*Note: Its a good idea to select the next size up for larger neck sizes.

After a measurement is obtained, its a good idea to opt for a necklace size that is at least the second size up from your neck size. For example, if you have an 18 inch neck, you should probably choose a chain length of 20 inches or more. An 18 inch chain would feel too tight. Also consider the type of necklace when choosing length. Does the necklace lie flat? Is there a heavy dangling pendant? These aspects can both effect how a chain will hang.

Children's Sizes:

Necklace (Toddler) 12"
Necklace (Child) 14"
 

Women's Bracelet Sizes:  7"

Men's Bracelet Sizes:  8"

 Children's Bracelet Sizes:

0-3 months                  3.5"
3-6 months                  4.0"
6-12 months                4.5"
12-24 months              5.0"
2-4 years                      5.5"
5-7 years                      6.0"
8-12 years                    6.5"

For everyday minor tarnish removal, I use Connoisseurs Jewelry Wipes which I have purchased in the jewelry section at Walmart.  I have also found these on Ebay for a little less than Walmart.

If a more thorough cleaning is required, rinse the object first to remove any pollution that may have settled on the object. These contaminants, which may be more abrasive than the polish you will be using, can actually scratch the silver if rubbed into the surface. Apply Tarni-Shield Silver Polish, Twinkle Silver Polish, Blitz Silver Polish, Goddard’s Silver Foam, Wright's Anti-Tarnish Silver Polish (found at your local grocery store or Walmart), or Wright's Silver Cream using a moist cellulose sponge. If you feel it necessary to protect your hands from moisture, use nitrile gloves which contain no ingredients that tarnish silver. Rub the object in a straight, back-and-forth manner so as to maintain a uniform appearance. Avoid rubbing in a circular motion. Rinse the sponge regularly, as elements in the tarnish can be very abrasive.

Dried polish can be removed by patting the area with a warm wet cotton ball or a wet horsehair brush. Rinse the object with warm water, and then dry with a Selvyt cloth or cotton dish towel immediately to avoid spotting.

Never Use Toothpaste as a Silver Polish!

Toothpaste should NEVER be used as a silver polish. Some toothpastes contain baking soda or other ingredients which are much too abrasive; even trace amounts can cause serious damage. Use polishes that are specifically formulated to remove tarnish from silver.

Silver Storage & Display

Your primary consideration should be to keep silver objects clean and free of dust and surface grime. In addition, the following guidelines will help to preserve your silver’s finish while it is on display or in storage.

To minimize the formation of tarnish, use 3M Anti-Tarnish Strips to absorb tarnish-producing gases, and silica gel to keep relative humidity low. Certain paints, oils, and fabrics within the case can accelerate the formation of tarnish. Therefore, if the case or cabinet is made of wood, the interior surface should be sealed, preferably with lacquer or water-based polyurethane. If latex paint is used, allow it to dry for at least four months.

Before storing, wrap each piece in non-buffered tissue paper (acid-free and of archival quality) or soft anti-tarnish tissue, place it in a polyethylene bag such as a Ziploc, toss in a 3M Anti-Tarnish Strip, and seal the bag. This will provide some protection against changes in relative humidity and create a barrier against tarnish-producing gases.

You can further protect silver pieces against tarnish by placing small containers of silica gel (to absorb moisture) and activated charcoal (to absorb pollutants) in the storage bag.

Some storage materials should be avoided! Wrapping in newspaper or binding in rubber bands can cause deep discoloration that may have to be professionally polished (I found out the rubber band No-No the hard way!). Plastic wrap contains tarnish-producing materials and can also adhere to the silver over time, requiring solvents to remove. Finally, non-archival cardboard boxes contain acids that aggressively tarnish silver.

3M Anti-Tarnish Strips

3M Anti-Tarnish Strips can be used to absorb tarnish-producing gases. The strips are made from a 45-lb. paper containing activated charcoal. They guard against corrosion, tarnish, and discoloration by absorbing airborne pollutants. These strips can also be used to protect objects containing copper, brass, solder, gold, and tin. Unlike similar products, 3M strips absorb on both sides.

Silica Gel

Since World War II, silica gel has been the drying agent of choice by government and industry. It is safe to use with even the most sensitive materials, including food and medicine—it’s what is contained in those tiny packets enclosed in pill bottles and shoe boxes to prevent moisture. It prevents tarnish- and corrosion-causing condensation within enclosed areas, such as flatware drawers and china cabinets. Such areas should be made as vapor-proof as possible.

Despite its name, silica gel is not a gel, but is in the form of chemically inert man-made granules containing thousands of tiny crevices that “drink up” excess humidity from the air by surface adsorption. A good choice of product is a canister containing silica gel that turns from blue to pink when saturated with moisture. Reactivate the gel by drying the canister in a conventional oven. The reactivation process can be repeated indefinitely for a lifetime of protection. (Read directions thoroughly; silica gel dust should not be inhaled.)